Table 4 Ten

BISTRO ORTOLAN

Bistro Ortolan doesn’t serve illegal or immoral species. Some fattening ones perhaps, but then the restaurant’s name is a tad oxymoronic.

Paul McGrath’s food is far too opulent and elaborate for the appellation. His time at Tony Bilson’s Ampersand and Sydney caterer Katering, has infused his food with labour-intensive technique and the careful filigree of French fine dining.

The old, narrow two-storey shopfront is just a couple of small rooms with a great upstairs balcony for balmier weather. A mix of white and pinot-hued walls, dark carpets and ornate wallpaper highlights over the fireplaces give it a homely feel.

www.bistroortolan.com.au

2009 Menu

ENTRÉE
Crisp-fried veal sweetbread with savoy cabbage rémoulade, sauce gribiche and a warm veal vinaigrette.

MAIN
Twice-cooked tenderloin of bio-dynamic beef with mushroom duxelles, sarladaise potatoes and bordelaise eschallots.

DESSERT
Caramelised brioche ‘French toast’ with fresh raspberry salad and vanilla ice cream.

Involved since

  • 2008
  • 2009