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BISTRO ORTOLAN Bistro Ortolan doesn’t serve illegal or immoral species. Some fattening ones perhaps, but then the restaurant’s name is a tad oxymoronic. Paul McGrath’s food is far too opulent and elaborate for the appellation. His time at Tony Bilson’s Ampersand and Sydney caterer Katering, has infused his food with labour-intensive technique and the careful filigree of French fine dining. The old, narrow two-storey shopfront is just a couple of small rooms with a great upstairs balcony for balmier weather. A mix of white and pinot-hued walls, dark carpets and ornate wallpaper highlights over the fireplaces give it a homely feel. 2009 Menu ENTRÉE MAIN DESSERT Involved since
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